Total immersion

It’s not enough to have some kayaking skills, you must be the ocean. You must look ahead, feel the surge, know the ocean’s power and become one with it, so that the kayak is no longer your boat, but your body. It is merely an extension of your consciousness, not a thing apart, but oneContinue reading “Total immersion”

Cleaning up

Is he catching an Arctic trout for breakfast? Nope. He’s smashing though a few inches of last night’s ice to have a wash in fresh water. It’s early winter – despite a rare burst of sun – and on this coast there is no running water. So if you want to drink or to wash, youContinue reading “Cleaning up”

Moving mountains

At first glance, these dark shapes look like rocky hills with sunlight glinting off wet rocks after recent rain. But no, everything here is basically water, fresh and salt, frozen and liquid, and the hills are small, friendly icebergs travelling south with our kayaks on the polar current. Swirling as they go, the likelihood of bergsContinue reading “Moving mountains”

Arrive in style

After two hours carving through heavy cloud, aboard Helgi Jonssen’s beautiful executive prop jet, East Greenland’s eternal snows suddenly appeared before us. I had been dreaming of this exotic world for eight years, and now I had arrived from Reykjavik – in style, warmth and comfort. But it was not to last, as the next leg, toContinue reading “Arrive in style”

Local expertise

In the small hunting village of Isortoq local hunters pored over our maps. They saw the terrain in terms of wildlife needed for their families to survive: Fjord seals here, guillemots there, Bladder-nosed seals further out in the current. But what they recognised most urgently was that more violent icecap winds, or pitoraqs, would be howling downContinue reading “Local expertise”