Suddenly, there they were: massive icebergs falling straight off the 10,000′ icecap. Danish skipper Neils Underberg (maybe not a good name for East Greenland), who had sailed these waters for 25 years, warned us about the big, ice-choked bay called Koge Bugt. I dismissed his warnings because kayaks can get through a lot of places that boats can’t. Bad move. We soon discovered that Neils was right. We couldn’t get across the bay. It was frozen over. And then the sea fog appeared, and we were lost. By a miracle we escaped, but even worse conditions awaited us.